Overview
Refinishing sands a hardwood floor down to bare wood, removing scratches, stains and worn finish, then applies an optional new stain and several coats of protective finish. The result looks close to new for a fraction of the cost of replacing the floor.
Not every tired floor needs a full sand. If the finish is dull but the wood underneath isn’t damaged, a lighter screen and recoat may be enough. Engineered hardwood can only be sanded if its wood layer is thick enough.
At a glance
- Best for
- Worn, scratched, gray or dated solid hardwood.
- Not for
- Laminate, vinyl, or engineered wood with a very thin top layer.
- Color change
- Yes, with a full sand.
- Time out of the rooms
- Usually several days, depending on the finish.
- How often
- A full refinish lasts years; a recoat in between keeps it fresh.
- Odor
- Water-based finishes have far less odor than oil-based.
Refinishing options
Screen and recoat
The existing finish is buffed and a fresh topcoat applied. Good for dull floors without deep scratches. Quicker and less expensive, but no color change.
Full sand and refinish
Sanded to bare wood to remove damage and old finish, with the option of a new stain color. The only way to fix scratches that reach the wood.
Water-based finish
Dries clear and fast with low odor, and keeps light woods light. Several coats can go on in a day.
Oil-based finish
A warmer amber tone that deepens over time. Slower to dry, with a stronger odor while it cures.
Is your floor a good candidate?
| Scratched, dull or gray solid hardwood | Great fit | Exactly what refinishing is for. |
|---|---|---|
| Hardwood found under old carpet | Great fit | Often in good shape once the staples and tack strip are removed. |
| Pet and water stains | Good fit | Light stains sand out; deep black stains may need board replacement. |
| Engineered hardwood | Good fit | Only if the wood layer is thick enough. It’s checked before quoting. |
| Boards with rot or soft spots | Not recommended | Damaged boards are replaced before refinishing. |
| Laminate or vinyl that looks like wood | Not recommended | These can’t be sanded; they’re replaced instead. |
Pros and cons
Pros
- Costs much less than new flooring
- Removes scratches, stains and wear
- Change the color without replacing the floor
- A strong return when preparing a home to sell
Cons
- Rooms are out of use for several days
- Sanding creates dust, even with containment
- Can’t fix rot, deep damage or very thin boards
- Each full sand removes a little wood
What affects the cost
Every project is priced after your rooms are reviewed. These are the factors that move the number most.
- Square footage
- The biggest factor. Closets and small rooms take more edge work.
- Floor condition
- Deep scratches, old adhesive, paint or wax need extra sanding passes.
- Repairs
- Replacing damaged or stained boards before sanding.
- Stain color
- Adding or changing a stain adds a step and drying time.
- Finish type and coats
- Premium finishes and extra coats cost more and last longer.
- Stairs
- Each tread and riser is sanded and finished by hand.
Step by step
Inspect the floor
Board thickness, past sanding, nails and damage are checked, and boards that can’t be saved are replaced.
Prepare the rooms
Furniture comes out, doorways and vents are covered to contain dust, and protruding nails are set.
Sand to bare wood
The floor is sanded in several passes with progressively finer grits, then edges and corners are sanded by hand-held machines.
Stain
Optional. Test patches on your own floor are the best way to choose a color before the whole floor is stained.
Apply finish coats
Usually two to three coats, with a light buff between coats for adhesion and a smooth feel.
How to prepare
- Move furniture, rugs and everything else off the floor.
- Take down curtains that reach the floor.
- You may be asked to turn off forced-air heating during sanding so dust doesn’t circulate.
- Plan another route through the house, or a place to stay if the finish is oil-based.
- Keep pets out until the finish has cured.
Care and maintenance
- Socks only for roughly the first day; check your finish’s instructions.
- Bring furniture back after a few days, with felt pads on every leg.
- Wait a couple of weeks before putting rugs down, while the finish fully hardens.
- Clean with a hardwood-specific cleaner; avoid steam and wet mops.
- Schedule a screen and recoat every few years to extend the finish.
Frequently asked questions
- How many times can hardwood be refinished?
- Solid hardwood can usually be sanded many times over its life. Engineered hardwood depends on how thick its wood layer is; some can be refinished once or twice, some not at all. It gets checked before quoting.
- Screen and recoat or a full refinish?
- If scratches are only in the finish and the wood isn’t gray or stained, a screen and recoat is quicker and cheaper. If bare wood is showing, or you want a new color, it needs a full sand.
- Can I change the color?
- Yes. Once the floor is sanded to bare wood, you can go lighter, darker or keep it natural. Testing stain samples on your own floor is the best way to choose.
- How long until I can use the rooms?
- Plan for a few days out of the rooms while sanding, staining and finish coats dry. Your quote will include the timeline.
- Is dust-contained sanding really dust-free?
- Sanders with dust collection capture most of it, but no sanding is completely dust-free. Covering doorways and vents keeps the rest contained.
Ready to talk about your floors?
Send room photos or a few details and your project will be reviewed before anything is priced. No obligation.